Love letter to Chiang Mai

Chiang Mai, Thailand has to be one of my favourite places in the whole world.  I’m not sure if you do this but when I travel I always try to glean the “feel” of the place.  It’s a very personal thing to do because attempting to pinpoint something so diffuse and contradictory like emotions definitely involves work.  I believe it’s well worth the effort though, because this form of memory will stay with you long after you have boarded the flight and made your way to the next destination.  Each of my favourite places (Chiang Mai, Budapest, Rangoon, London, Toronto) all have their nuances but when I strip it down they all offer a feeling of love.  The love affair I have with Toronto (content, calm, friendship love) is very different from the one I have with Rangoon (longing, tear at your heart, long-distance love) but they both make me want to be there when I am not.  So, the love I have for Chiang Mai is a mix of comfortable friendship and passionate annoyance.  I will discuss some of the reasons why I love Chiang Mai so much and then will end with the petty stuff that makes me never want to return again.

I love Chiang Mai for its raw beauty that hasn’t been sterilized and cleaned up yet.  Many of the residents are polite, friendly and accommodating; there isn’t a sense of pushiness or having to always be in a hurry.  I love the used book stores near Tha Phae Gate, especially “Backstreet books” whose owner is an older Irish gentleman with great taste.  He will actually point out when you are “reading rubbish”.  I will always want to be sitting at Pun Pun restaurant that offers the most amazing organic vegetarian dishes.  Please don’t ask me which items on the menu are the best to order because I always ordered the same combination each visit: lime juice or ginger tea, muslim salad (lettuce with cucumbers, hard-boiled eggs and tofu drenched in peanut sauce), and their roti bread.  I would seriously fly back just to be able to taste their peanut sauce with flakes of real coconut and the thin salty/sweet roti bread.  I love Khun Churn vegetarian restaurant and their lunch-time buffets of carefully prepared curries and salads!  I don’t really care, I will admit that I love the Starbucks on Nimman that offered me great service with a smile (after awhile I didn’t even have to order my chai-tea with warmed low-fat milk because they had already rung it in), air-conditioning, relaxing music and peace.

So, like any relationship with an ounce of depth, lets keep it real and discuss why I would think twice before returning.  Till I can rent a teeny tiny car to drive around in, I will have to walk in a city that is not walkable.  Every sidewalk has opportunities to fall or trip, the parks can make you fall on your face during rainy season and do not even get me started on territorial street dogs.  When I lived there I was terrorized by a small red-furred dog with a pointy face.  Imagine a slightly bigger pomeranian that became so vocal and angry at you for just for walking on the other side of the street.  She would literally cross the street to yell at me.  It’s a shame because she was actually kind of cute.  If I could adopt a dog I would probably adopt one that looks like her.  What does that say about me that I love someone who made my life so hellish?  I would literally take the long way home to avoid her pointy face.  Also, if you can’t ride a motor-bike, your day can become a chain of tedious conversations in broken-Thai bargaining for a fare with the taxi-drivers.

In spite of all the inconveniences, living in Chiang Mai gave me the opportunity to meet some incredible and fascinating people.  I really do miss them, especially my roommates.  Anyways, like any love affair, the good usually out weighs the bad and I have a feeling that Chiang Mai will always have a hold on me.

Gumption: Gwyneth Paltrow

Gwyneth Paltrow was panned by the media a few years ago when she started up her blog GOOP, a website that addresses fashion, entertainment and culinary issues.  People were in an uproar over the flaunting of her privileged lifestyle and the pretentious entries.  For example, a few posts strongly hinted that you were just not civilized if you didn’t have a certain thread count to your sheets or owned a certain purse.  I’m determined to believe that she is just misunderstood.  Gwyneth Paltrow is friends with Madonna, is married to the front-man of a successful rock band and was raised in Manhattan by hollywood royalty.  Her 68-year-old mother, Blythe Danner is a respected actress and is still working.  For her social position and the peers she draws from, the advice is probably pretty sound.  It’s of my opinion that, if you don’t like, don’t read it.  Since her lifestyle choices do not match my own, I don’t read it but I’m also not going to diminish her efforts because I’m somehow above it.  There’s a certain priggishness to that too no?

What I do love is her new cookbook “My father’s daughter.”  Her producer/director father Bruce Paltrow passed away a few years ago and in this book she has gathered some of her parents’ recipes, shares current dishes that she makes for her family and memories of cooking with her father.  Food is the foundation of showing your love to someone and when I look through this cookbook it’s clear, through family photos and memories, that it is a way for her to pay tribute to a man who had such a positive influence in her life.  I don’t believe that a pretentious snob could create such a piece of work and maybe all Gwyneth Paltrow can be faulted for is wanting to share a part of herself with the world.

Gossip

With the recent “News of the world” phone hacking scandal, it’s a good moment to discuss the gossip industry and celebrity in general.  The documentary “Teenage Paparazzo” (2010), which follows Adrien Grenier’s friendship with a 15-year-old celebrity photographer, critically evaluates the role of celebrities in our society.  Actors, actresses, musicians and other public figures are filling the void left by a less prominent monarchy and serve as the role models that many are drawing on to build their identities.  Along with the adoration comes the scrutiny into their private lives and they are intertwined in an industry that is solely built on relishing the mishaps, miseries and some happiness of others.

Not many would admit to supporting such a lowly form of media, especially since “News of the world” endangered the lives of others and compromised criminal investigations.  Their actions are beyond heinous but they are a part of an industry with people craving photographs and updates on the stars.  Supply and demand right?  The fact that I don’t mind my own business when it comes to celebrities who I do not know and will never meet is definitely something that I keep under wraps.  As a grad student much of my life is devoted to reading and writing articles and text, so gossip blogs are a way to relax and consume something that is light and frivolous.  We are trained to take apart arguments, to see beyond the surface and to be critical of anything we engage in.  So, I hope that I don’t take myself so seriously that I can’t admit my bad habits.  It’s unclear if I will ever try to break free from this vice but if you too like to “not mind your own business” I recommend two witty and snarky blogs that will provide you with the salacious details but also make you laugh:

“The Awful Truth” on E-online and “Lainey gossip”

So rather than list all the reasons why I love these two gossip gurus, I will provide you with two examples of their work that I guarantee will give anyone a chuckle.

http://www.laineygossip.com/Demi_Lovato_and_Ryan_Phillippe_were_hooking_up_19jul11.aspx?CatID=0&CelID=20193

http://www.eonline.com/uberblog/the_awful_truth/b238592_alex_pettyfer_bashes_women_s–t_hole.html

Gumption: Lauryn Hill

The artist who composed the few sentences that all women should recite to themselves:

“Girlfriend, let me break it down for you again
You know I only say it ’cause I’m truly genuine
Don’t be a hardrock when you’re really a gem
Babygirl, respect is just a minimum”
-Lauryn Hill in “Doo Wop, that thing”

Nuff said.

Scent of a man

Not being in close proximity to one for several months made me consider how much I love the scent of a man.  When I was living abroad I obviously did not hug a man on a regular basis and so I started to actually long for physical contact.  One time, I was walking down the street in Chiang Mai and a guy that I wouldn’t usually even bat an eye at made me physically turn my head and look after him like a teenager.  As someone in her late twenties, I usually have a mental filter for men in their early twenties wearing a white tank-top undershirt as a shirt, Ray Ban aviators and army shorts.  They do not appear in my radar at all, but this dude smelled seriously good.  So it got me to thinking, why do I love the scent of a man so much?

For me personally, I feel that the perfect man smells like a mix of perspiration and good cologne.  One of my favourite activities to pass time at an airport is investigating new fragrances.  Now, there is a limit to this hobby since I usually feel like I’m going to pass out after a few minutes but there are a few I would recommend.  I like cologne to be more on the fresh side with strong citrus overtones and woody undertones.  Here are a few great ones:

1) Bleu de Chanel

I recently bought this for my partner and he loves it.  The only thing that troubles me is that I am so easily influenced by marketing campaigns.  This ad was on repeat at Siam Centre in Bangkok when I was missing him the most.

2) Calvin Klein Escape

3) Acqua di Gio

Both of these products are pretty classic and subtle enough to suit many occasions.

4) Ralph Lauren Pony collection

The RL brand is founded on the image of clean lines so this also translates into their fragrances.  The Pony collection is fairly new and there are four different variations with subtle differences to suit the scent you’re looking for.

In closing, I would definitely say that the sense of smell can evoke emotion and help us recall memories.  We are living in an increasingly fragrance-free world in North America in the workplace and at certain public places so there may be fewer opportunities to spritz on your favourite scent.  While I appreciate catering to allergic sensitivities, there is something to be said about the ritual of prepping for the night with some perfume behind the ears, looking forward to the fun to be had.  So I say spritz on, but in moderation of course.

Gumption: Rivers Cuomo

To be completely honest, I don’t know very much about Rivers Cuomo.  Rather than reword facts from Wikipedia I’ll just list off the general info I know.  As the front-man of Weezer (which was a staple for me during my angst-ridden teen grunge days), Cuomo is a vegetarian who was raised on an ashram by liberal parents.  He also attended Harvard.  And…that’s basically about it.  He came to mind for this post because I saw him perform at a Canada Day concert where he belted out hit after hit (Say it ain’t so, Undone…the sweater song, My name is Jonas, Island in the sun etc), sounded great and danced around the stage like a rock star.  Now, for a shorter man with thick-rimmed glasses, there was something so “cool” about his presence and energy.  He really is the forefather of “geek chic” and maybe I like him because he seems genuine, not arrogant in spite of his Ivy League degree, and he is not “too cool for school.”

“I took you to Best Buy, you took me home to meet your Mom and Dad
Your Mom cooked meatloaf even though I don’t eat meat
I dug you so much, I took some for the team”

-Weezer from “If you’re wondering if I want you, (I want you to) “

Two magazines

I don’t know about you but I used to spend so much money on magazines.  Prior to living in Thailand for a few months where it was just absurdly expensive to buy English-language fashion publications, I could easily buy a magazine or two a week.  Folks, it does add up, especially when they are now about $6 a pop.  So, when I returned home I decided to evaluate what I liked about each magazine and try to find two monthly staples.  The two magazines I’m discussing focus on fashion and culture since I read most of my political issue articles online.  Forced to limit myself to two they are: Vanity Fair and Vogue.

And here are some of the reasons why:

1) They both have absolutely gorgeous advertisements.  Some complain that most fashion magazines are just that–ads–but this is one of the reasons I love them.  Not only are they visually appealing images of beautiful people and products, but you can also analyze them for the audience they are looking for.  When you frame it this way it becomes fascinating!  For example, a Chanel ad features a very different woman from the Gucci ones.  Why is that?

2) Vogue has a bit more depth than other magazines targeted towards women.  Although the strength of each issue varies, the feature articles profile the work of interesting people, beautiful homes, travel and some light political pieces.  I personally prefer these articles to finding out “10 ways to please your lover” or the number of stomach crunches you need to have a flat stomach.

3) While the clothes and accessories featured are extremely expensive and for a certain portion of the elite, they are still artistically beautiful.  Much of it is obviously not ready to wear but isn’t that the point?  If I wanted to see practical clothes I could just go ride the subway.

4) Vanity Fair has an amazing mix of cultural and political articles that you can gradually read throughout the month.  The quality of the writing is also pretty consistent.  I almost compare reading VF to having whole wheat bread–it will keep you satisfied much longer.

So, with that I’m looking forward to next month’s issues.

Gumption: Sookie Stackhouse

“True blood” premiered its 4th Season on Sunday so this week’s gumption post is about Anna Paquin as Sookie Stackhouse, the telepathic waitress and vampire lover in Bon Temps, Louisiana.  Trust me, I question why I like Sookie’s character so much when she is pretty much the opposite of who I am.  Am I fetishizing the fact that she lives in the south, loves to clean and goes each day to the same job she’s had forever? Having worked in the service industry during university I understand how hard she works and the annoying customers she puts up with–this is in no way devaluing her reality and situation.

I like Sookie because she is different (maybe that’s what puts us in the same position?) and I enjoy True Blood in general because it pushes the boundaries of normative judgements about what is civilized, what love looks like and what is acceptable.  If you have not seen the show, it is set in a small Louisiana town called Bon Temps when vampires have “come out” and are now living within society along side civilians.  They even have a synthetic blood drink called “True Blood” where they no longer have to kill humans (though some still choose to) and are trying to integrate into communities.  Although it is against the law to discriminate against vampires, the policies don’t necessarily reflect the realities that they live through.  The vampire represents the “other” who has historically and are currently still being judged for their race, sex, creed, sexual orientation and religion.

As I have said, the show is made to test your boundaries which means that there’s often nudity, love between same-sex and heterosexual partners, gore and violence.  Lets just say that there’s a sexy-times scene at a graveyard when vampire Bill Compton has risen from the grave which is literally and figuratively dirty, or another scene involving a meat pie (I still say yuck).  It sure does “hurt so good.”  True Blood makes us observe how socially constructed norms structure our lives and how we can always work to break them down if we choose to.

Getting back to Sookie Stackhouse I admire that she thinks quick on her feet, is sassy like nobody’s business and makes the very best of what she’s got.  She couldn’t attend college because her telepathy made class very distracting but she still has her “word of the day” calendar to improve her vocabulary.  The fact that she’s being fought over by two vampires doesn’t hurt either.  By the way, I’m team Eric.

Choosing your family

“Friends are the family you choose.”  I am usually the first to cringe at such sappy Hallmark greeting card sentimentality but I think that there might actually be something to this statement.  It’s funny that I will scoff at such sentiments but still believe in the notion of soul mates and undeniable connections between partners.  My inherent romantic nature and real-life experiences may have something to do with why I am more willing to believe in the priceless nature of true friendship.

So how do I define true friendship?  I am lucky enough to have a few very close friends who I love deeply and rely upon.  So, I will draw from the relationships that we have worked hard to build and maintain.  I have shared much happiness and trials with these men and women, I have shown my absolute worst, and they are still the people I am fully and completely myself around.  It comes down to trust, which is something that is usually strengthened gradually but so easily lost.  I trust that they will love me no matter what.  I also feel that they have my best interests at heart and are truly happy for my achievements, while being honest enough to tell me when I am wrong.  The most toxic friends are the ones who may seem to be on your side but are involved in a strange passive-aggressive competition with you.  I have learned to cut my ties or at least loosen the connections with these people.  It really is for the best.

Strong relationships always involve reciprocity so I do try my best to also provide my friends with the same amount of respect, affection and care they show me.  This is not to say that friendships are not tested by time or distance but I have seen proof that the true ones last.  You may not be a part of each other’s daily lives but when you are together, the same connection is still there.  There are also times when my friends annoys me beyond belief but having grown older, I see how real connections with people are rare, which in turn develops my commitment to love them for precisely who they are.

If you want to see a film that addresses the themes of friendship, love and family I would recommend that you watch “Little white lies” (2010).  A character-driven piece, the film follows the lives of a group of friends who are on holiday in France.  You get to observe their moments of conflict and laughter all with a soundtrack made for a summer road trip.  Actually, my only critique of the film involves the music.  While it’s all fun, it did sound like a collection of the director’s iPod summer playlist.  I understand including a few favourites but the entire mish mash list is a bit gratuitous.  With regards to the writing, I enjoyed how like many groups of friends they were all close but there were also pockets within the network where some were closer to others.  This was also the only movie in recent memory that had me in hysterics with two memorable scenes involving a boat.

So, ending this piece I just want to thank my closest friends (you know who you are) for the decade or more of love.  I am beyond lucky to have you as my family.

Cast of “Little white lies” (2010)

Gumption: Amanda Foreman

I was not familiar with Amanda Foreman or her work till last week and I certainly never expected to write about public figures I have only admired for a few days but here it is.  She wrote the best-selling biography “Georgiana, Duchess of Devonshire” (2008) which was made into a movie starring Keira Knightley and is currently working on a book about the American civil war.  I’ve seen the film “The Duchess” and am currently making my way through Foreman’s book, which grew out of her dissertation.

With a history degree from Sarah Lawrence and a Masters and PhD from Oxford, she is also a mother of five children (four daughters and a son).  She is a woman who takes pride in being a mother and describes the day that she could no longer safely carry a child as one of the saddest of her life.  There is a stillness that she embodies because of the experience of being raised by rootless and cosmopolitan parents: “My father had been uprooted.  And my mother, being English, was completely uprooted  when we moved to L.A.  For a long time, I felt incredibly lonely.  It’s just part of who I am anyway.” This upbringing in turn, influenced her desire for a large family: “I felt a need like my head was going to fall off if I couldn’t have more, perhaps from feeling isolated and lonely inside.  So I created an island, a peninsula.”  Along with her love of motherhood, she is still a woman who takes the time to work and write.  When she isn’t working she spends time with her partner and kids in the city or for weekends away since she believes that “you have make choices.  So our choices are that our family are going to be our social life.”

Tina Barney of Vogue describes her as “A spirited blonde, still girlish in her early 40s, Foreman does indeed have a musical voice and an animated delivery as she discusses her convictions, her quick brown eyes and ready smile signaling an enjoyable bracing mix of sunshine and gravitas.”  As a younger woman, it’s always good to have another example of a woman who negotiates her life with grace and dignity.